Before you ask: Yes, these tattoos look incredibly natural. It’s actually a super-detailed process called scalp micropigmentation, and it camouflages thinning hair in a very precise way. If you’re at all curious about this inking method and how it works, check out our expert-led guide below. You might think it sounds similar to eyebrow microblading (another permanent tattoo procedure), but they actually require very different tools, pigments, and techniques. See, microblading uses full strokes to mimic the actual wisps of hair, whereas SMP places the ink in teeny dots to create shadow—which creates a softer, more natural-looking effect. Those dots also penetrate more deeply into the skin (as opposed to microblading, which creates shallow strokes), which provides a longer-term or permanent result, says certified trichologist William Gaunitz, FWTS, founder of Advanced Trichology. Additionally, the SMP pigment is meant to match your hair follicle shade, not the strands themselves. “Everyone, regardless of hair color, has a follicle that is a shade of black unique to them,” says Jara. “At times, neutralizer colors can be used to mix into the black pigment, if the client’s skin undertone calls for it.” In terms of placement, it doesn’t really matter where you’re experiencing hair loss—SMP can add density to the hairline, temples, crown, etc. Just know that this procedure does not create actual wisps of hair—again, these are tiny microdots that create a shadowed, almost powdery effect. That said: “Not everyone will look good with a hair density treatment,” says Jara. It might blend more seamlessly with your natural lengths around the hairline or temples, where you do have natural shadows; but if you’re hoping to cover a larger surface area or your whole head, it will resemble more of a buzzed cut. “Depending on the pattern of hair loss, a complete shave may be needed for SMP to look natural,” Jara adds. After landing on a plan of action, it’s time to tattoo: Your artist will take the penlike machine and get to work, entering the dermis at about 2 millimeters deep, depending on your individual scalp thickness. “There definitely is a sweet spot involved with SMP, which is why it’s important to pick a well-trained artist!” Jara says. “If the needle only hits the epidermis layer, the pigment will fade quickly and come off through the layer’s natural process of shedding and renewal. If the needle goes too deep, beyond the epidermis into the subcutaneous layer, that’s when pigment migrates and stains the scalp in big round blotches.” If this is your first session, your artist will typically use the lightest hue in your chosen shade range and tattoo the microdots with plenty of space in between—that way, they can lay the foundation and understand how your scalp heals before using more precise techniques. During the second session, your artist will fill in those gaps with more micro-impressions and assess whether they need to use a slightly darker or lighter shade. “The third session is usually when all the little details are finely tuned,” Jara notes. Your artist will add even more density and perhaps go darker, depending on how you’ve healed. Typically, you’ll need two to three sessions to reach final results (four, for some), so patience is key. Each session can take anywhere from one to five hours, says Jara, depending on the size of the area. After the first round, you’ll schedule the next session 10 to 14 days out and focus on healing and aftercare (more on that in a moment). “It is very important for the scalp to be fully healed before implanting further impressions into the scalp,” Jara adds. “This will prevent ink migration and oversaturation.” You also may be concerned about potentially destroying your existing hair follicles with the tattoo. But rest assured, “scalp micropigmentation does not damage or impair existing hair follicles in any way,” says Gaunitz. Think about a tattoo you may have on any other part of your body—hair still grows in that area, yes? So don’t worry about getting SMP on areas of your scalp that might grow back. However, “At the end of the day, SMP is a type of restorative tattoo and must be treated with care like a regular tattoo,” says Jara. “All tattoos have a risk of infection if not cared for properly.” All that to say: Do not skimp on aftercare. “My prep involves doing a sugar scrub a couple of days before the appointment, moisturizing the scalp, removing hair units, discontinuing the use of topical hair products (medicated and nonmedicated), avoiding a sunburn, and avoiding caffeine and alcohol the day before and day of your appointment,” says Jara. Gaunitz seconds the caffeine and alcohol warning, as they can thin the blood, which can lead to increased bleeding during the tattoo procedure. Depending on when you start scabbing (which is totally natural!), you can start using a light layer of moisturizer on the area twice a day. “Any fragrance-free light moisturizer would work,” says Jara, just make sure it’s super gentle and nourishing (i.e., no exfoliants or heavy-duty actives). See here for our favorite fragrance-free lotions to buy post-ink. Finally, protect the area from direct sun exposure: You might want to invest in a scalp sunscreen to shield the area, especially post-treatment when the skin is particularly vulnerable.
